them lolled under beach umbrellas or were busy getting sunburned as they heated their grills, flew their kites, and tossed their footballs.
âThe movable feast, also known as the portable parking lot,â Zee explained to David Greenstein. âOne of the ironies of being an islander is that you never have time to enjoy the place the way the tourists do. All week, while the tourists are touristing, the islanders are working. So on weekends they make it up, and come down here to party.â
We passed onto the Wasque reservation, going along the narrow road through the dunes, past Swan Lake, where once or twice weâve seen otters swimming among the ducks, geese, and swans, and out onto Wasque Point. There, the four-by-fours were parked side by side while beyond them the fishing rods were bending.
âFish!â cried Zee, pointing. âTheyâre getting fish, Jeff!â
Indeed they were. A lot of people were on, and others were up at the Jeeps, taking fish off their lures.
I swung over and drove along behind the parked trucks. I didnât see many that I recognized. Most of the regulars had moved out. The dozens of fishermen standing shoulder to shoulder, making their casts, were almost all amateurs. Crossed lines seemed to be the order of the day. A lot of fish were being caught, but a lot of gear was being lost, too. I looked at Zee and raised a brow.
She shook her head. âZoo city. Youâd take your life in your hands trying to fish in that crowd. Letâs keep going.â
Quinn said, âHow about trying the yellow shovel?â
âOkay,â I said.
âThe yellow shovel?â asked David Greenstein.
Zee explained. âThe yellow shovel is a spot on the beach. Years ago, we knew a guy named Al Prada who got a kick out of picking up toys he found lying on the beach. I guess he had boxes of the stuff in his garage. Anyway, one day we spotted him fishing just up East Beach a way, in a place we donât normally fish. He had a fish on, so we stopped and got a couple ourselves. It turned out that heâd stopped because heâd spotted a kidâs yellow plastic shovel lying on the sand, and while he was there, had decided to make a few casts. Ever since then, that spotâs been the yellow shovel.â
âOf course, the yellow shovel itself is long gone,â I said. âIn Al Pradaâs box of junk, probably.â
âBut the spotâs still there,â said Zee, âand we get fish there now and then. Weâre going to give it another shot now. The chances are there wonât be a crowd, and we can introduce you to the joys of surf casting without running the risk of having some greenhorn hook us instead of a fish.â
âIâm a greenhorn myself,â said David Greenstein.
âNo, youâre a Greenstein,â said Quinn.
âNot down here,â said Zee. âDown here heâs my cousin Dave from New Bedford. Right, Dave?â
âSounds good.â
âYou speak any Portuguese, cousin Dave?â
âSorry. No Portuguese. Does that mean I canât be your cousin any longer?â
âNot a bit. My own brothers canât speak Portuguese, and Iâm getting worse at it every year. No, youâll pass, with or without the language.â
âI know French and some German and a little Yiddish. Will that help?â
âA Yiddish-speaking Portagee, eh? Well . . .â
âOkay,â said Dave. âNo Yiddish.â
We arrived at the yellow shovel and got out.
Dave looked around. âHow do you know where you are?â
âYou just drive along until youâre there,â I said. âYouâve read the sign: There ainât no other place that looks like this place, so this must be the place.â
âAh.â
âYou do this a couple of times, and youâll know,â said Quinn.
We got the rods off the roof. My rod and Zeeâs are
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