together, almost as if they had accepted that I was here and that there was no need for any more uproar. Dan had drifted into dog mushing like everything else he had done, but now he enjoyed it to the exclusion of everything else. I wasnât convinced by the exclusion of everything else bit and pointed knowingly to his expensive hi-fi equipment. âMaybe dogs and music are a way of dealing with this country,â he said. There was almost a wink in his eye. âMushing helps you get into the country. When you are behind a team of dogs you can go anywhere and there is nothing your team wonât do for you.â
âAnd the music?â I said, pushing the question.
âSometimes the weather gets wicked up here so you turn on some heavy rock or turn up some Beethoven and you can blow the whole frigginâ place away.â
I sensed that maybe Dan was making up some sourdough story just to keep me amused, but the idea of a blizzard blowing outside and Beethoven, Bach or Led Zeppelin breaking decibels inside while Danâs two dozen dogs howled their own accompaniment seemed to me absurdly honest.
Whether Dan realized I was genuinely laughing at his story or whether he wanted to encourage the fantasy, he decided then to pour us some whiskey. I explained I didnât drink spirits and he looked at me with mock surprise, said there wasnât an Irishman alive who didnât drink whiskey and proceeded to triple the amount of the stuff in my tumbler with the remark, âNobody up here cares too much what you do or donât do, and anyway, onceyouâve drunk that you wonât impress me about saying you donât drink spirits.â I shrugged my shoulders in compliance. Part of me thought that Dan was just being macho again. He must have read my thoughts. âYouâll need something warm inside you if you are going out with the team,â he said. âCoffeeâs fine, but it doesnât sustain you out there.â There was something solicitous in the remark. Dan was after all as practical as his comfy cabin had presented itself to be.
I suggested that he play one of his favourite classical CDs. He laughed. âOh no,â he said, âmusic is for listening to when everything else gets done and thereâs nothing else to do but listen.â
âOkay, that seems fair,â I said.
Raising my overfull tumbler of whiskey, I dashed off as much of the three swallows I could without gagging and choking and suggested we make ready with the dog team. After all, thatâs why I was there.
What I wasnât expecting was the amount of preparation one has to do before going out to hitch the team. Dan rummaged through the gear hanging up in the kitchen, pulled out an old box of more gear and threw clothes at me like a rag picker, saying, âPut that on, that should fit, if it doesnât roll up the sleeves, it doesnât matter if the gloves are too big,â shouting orders at me while I just stood in obedient silence trying to fit on all these clothes.
âWhatâs all this for?â
âIt gets very cold out there, very cold, and when youâre charging through the bush the cold doesnât care too much for you so you need plenty of layers, plenty of thermals.â
Soon Dan had me dressed in an outrageously sized pair of waterproof and windproof leggings, a top coat to match a huge pair of fur-lined gloves, a pair of his own special boots, a cap with fur muffs to cover my ears and another coat with a hood to tie around that again, a scarf to ensure my mouth and nose were covered, and finally a pair of sunglasses. I looked in his small kitchen mirror at my bulk and size and said, âHow are the dogs going to pull all this weight?â
Danâs answer was quick. âA dozen of those dogs in front of you will pull faster than the same number of elephants. Remember, you ride on top of the snow, not through it, and youâll have to learn to
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