Pasta Modern by Francine Segan Page A

HORSERADISH-TOMATO SAUCE
    { Pasta al ferretto al rafano }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Basilicata
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Horseradish on pasta? I was dubious, and figured my Italian friends were pulling my leg when they told me what I’d be eating.
But no—it’s real. In Basilicata, they have been topping pasta with grated horseradish for centuries. Despite my skepticism, I was amazed to find that horseradish adds a marvelous brightness. The horseradish must be fresh, not jarred, grated right onto each person’s dish at the table, just like you’d do with cheese.
Traditionally, this dish is served with pasta al ferretto , named after the metal rod the dough was rolled around. It’s available dried in the States, or you can substitute homemade “knitting needle” pasta , but the recipe is fabulous with any shape, size, or type of pasta!
1 pound (455 g) fresh tomatoes
1 sweet onion, finely minced
Olive oil
⅓ cup (37 g) homemade coarsely ground breadcrumbs, toasted
⅓ cup (40 g) coarsely chopped walnuts
1 pound (455 g) pasta al ferretto or any pasta
Fresh horseradish
Plunge the tomatoes into boiling water for a few seconds, then remove them with a slotted spoon. Peel, deseed, and dice the tomatoes.
In a wide saucepan over medium-high heat, warm 3 tablespoons oil and cook the onions until very soft, about 5 minutes. Stir the tomatoes into the onions and cook, covered, on very low heat for about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the breadcrumbs, walnuts, and 2 tablespoons oil in a small nonstick pan, and cook on medium-high heat until the breadcrumbs are dark golden. Set aside.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and stir into the tomato sauce until well combined, adding a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking water if needed. Sprinkle with the walnut-breadcrumb mixture and serve. Top with a tablespoon or two of fresh horseradish grated on a cheese grater.

SMOKED SPAGHETTI WITH CHARRED TOMATOES
    { Spaghetti affumicati con pomodorini grigliati }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Northern and central Italy
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Some of Italy’s most innovative chefs are smoking pasta these days, a technique that adds a rich layer of flavor. Here’s a fabulously simple way to do it at home, without a smoker or other complicated equipment. You’ll love the technique!
The smoked pasta itself is so tasty that you’ll be tempted to eat it by the fistful, even without sauce. But you’ll love this sauce, which delivers the flavor of slow oven-roasted tomatoes, but without turning on the oven! The tomatoes are seared in a very hot skillet until charred on the cut side, then turned over, covered, and left to pan roast.
Olive oil
8 baby Roma or plum tomatoes, cut in half
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound (455 g) spaghetti, preferably Benedetto Cavalieri brand
Salt
Several untreated wood chips or dry twigs
Fresh herbs, minced, such as parsley, basil, and oregano
Parmesan or other aged cheese
Heat a heavy iron skillet until very hot, add 1 tablespoon oil (it will smoke) and put in the tomatoes, cut sides down. Cook on very high heat until the tomatoes are blackened. Turn them over with a spatula, and char them on the skin sides. Sprinkle the garlic over the tomatoes, drizzle with 2 more tablespoons oil, remove from the heat, and cover.
Boil the spaghetti in salted water until it is al dente. While the pasta is cooking, put a scattering of wood chips or a few bits of dry twigs in a large high-rimmed baking pan, top with a grill rack, and light the wood so the chips begin to smoke. Drain the pasta and spread it over the grill rack. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil so the smoke flavor can absorb into the pasta, about 4 minutes.
Peel away and discard the skin from the tomato halves—it should separate easily. Gently toss the smoked pasta into the skillet with the tomatoes and season with salt. Serve topped with a drizzle of olive oil, fresh herbs, and shaved or grated cheese.

PASTA WITHOUT WATER
    { Pasta senz’acqua }
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    SERVES 6 | REGION: Abruzzo