cross the open waters of something called the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
âWhatâs a strait?â I had asked Jessy before we left Seattle. I figured heâd know since heâd been on the last Tribal Journey.
âItâs a narrow passage of water that connects two larger bodies of water,â heâd answered. âThis strait connects the Pacific Ocean to the Salish Sea.â
âWe have a sea named after us? Thatâs cool!â I looked at the map Jessy had.
âWhatâs a Juan de Fuca?â I followed up.
âThatâs a
who,
not a
what,â
he replied. âJuan de Fuca was some explorer who supposedly found this strait in the 1500s.â
âWas it lost?â I asked.
âHa-ha, very funny,â Jessy said. âNo, he found it for the Spaniards when they were exploring over here. We knew where it was all along.â
âOh.â I nodded.
âDo you have any more dumb questions?â Jessy asked.
âAs a matter of fact I do. When and where do we cross the borderline that separates the U.S. from Canada?â
âThe international border between the two countries runs down the middle of the strait.â He pointed to a small dotted line on the map.
âHow do people know when theyâve crossed the border?â I asked. âIs there a line floating out in the water?â
âThese
are
dumb questions,â Jessy said. âOf course thereâs no line floating in the water. When we arrive at our first stop on Vancouver Island, we all have to show our passports.â
âNow I get it. I was wondering when weâd need those.â
âThe Sockeye skipper will have all our passports locked in his safe on the support boat. Any more dumb questions?â
I thought for a minute. âNo, not now, but Iâm sure Iâll have more dumb questions later.â
So now we were pushing off the shores of the Lummi Nation, headed west. The morning was again cold and foggy.
I spent the morning shift on the Sockeye while other pullers had their turn on the Raven. I got to ride in the main cabin with the skipper, who was answering more of my dumb questions. How else is a fella going to learn anything?
The skipper had been watching the skies and listening to the weather reports for the area. He didnât like what he saw in either. The fog was not thinning out. The wind hadpicked up. The oceanâs surface was choppy. The pullers were not getting very far and were exhausted.
âThese are dangerous waters,â the skipper said. âWeâre very close to the international shipping channel. Thatâs where large freight carriers move shipping containers in and out of Vancouver. One of those monsters wouldnât see a little thirty-foot canoe in the fog.â
So the skipper made a decision for safetyâs sake. He radioed the skipper of the Raven. He told them they needed to come aboard the Sockeye for the remainder of the morning. Heâd tow the canoe as we crossed the stormy strait.
None of the pullers really wanted to get out. But Tribal Journey rules allowed canoes to be towed for short distances during bad weather or dangerous water conditions. After everyone was on board the Sockeye, the Raven was tied on behind. The skipper set off across the strait.
Meanwhile, fresh from the water, the pullers warmed themselves with blankets,coffee, and hot chocolate. I sat with them while they talked about how hard the going had been. As I listened, I noticed the fog getting even thicker. You could only see about thirty or forty feet in front of you.
All of a sudden a moving, rusty red wall broke through the fog and headed right for us. I didnât know what it could be. It scared me and I yelled.
âWhatâs that thing coming right at us?â
Everyone turned to see the bow of a freighter ship as it became visible. It was barreling down on us. It mustâve been seven stories tall! The skipper saw it, too,
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