Food in Jars

Food in Jars by Marisa McClellan Page B

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Authors: Marisa McClellan
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the seeds contain so much pectin. However, Cara Cara oranges are a nearly seedless hybrid, so we can’t depend on them for a pectin boost. You can achieve a loose set just by cooking this marmalade to 220°F/105°C. For a firmer marmalade, additional pectin is required.

HONEY LEMON MARMALADE
    I ’VE LEARNED THAT EVERY JANUARY, I COME DOWN with a miserable cold that is best treated with a day on the couch and many steaming mugs of honey, ginger, and lemon tea. This marmalade evokes those infusions, and makes me want to stir a spoonful into a glass of hot water. Because the honey plays such a dominant role, make sure to choose one that tastes good to you. I particularly like buckwheat honey for its assertive grassiness. Blackberry or wildflower honeys are also good choices. Note the overnight sitting time and plan accordingly.
MAKES 4 (1-PINT/500 ML) JARS
    4½ pounds/2 kg lemons
    4 cups/800 g sugar
    2 cups/480 ml honey
    Wash the fruit in warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly. Using a very sharp knife, cut both the flower and stem ends off the fruit. Set each trimmed lemon on one of its newly flat ends and cut it into 6 wedges. Lay each wedge on its side and cut away thestrip of inner membrane and seeds. Reserve the seeds (we’ll be using them as a pectin source).
    Take a trimmed wedge (it should look a bit like a pyramid with its top cut off), lay it rind-side up and thinly slice from one point to the other. What you want to end up with are bits of lemon that are no more than a ¼-inch/6 mm thick (⅛-inch/3 mm thick is even better) and no more than 1 to 1½ inches/2.5 to 4 cm in length. Repeat this with all the lemons.
    Bundle up the reserved seeds in a length of cheesecloth and tie the ends well, so that no seeds can escape.
    Heap the lemon slices into a nonreactive pot with the seed bundle and add 2 quarts/2 liters water. Bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as the fruit has reached a rolling boil, remove the pot from the heat. Cover the pot and let it sit at room temperature overnight.
    On day two, prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
    Remove the seed bundle from the pot and discard. Strain the fruit, reserving all the liquid. Put the softened lemon into your jam pot. Measure out 6 cups/1.4 liters of the cooking liquid and pour it into the pot. Add the sugar and honey and bring to a boil. Cook vigorously over high heat until the mixture reaches 220°F/105°C (this takes between 30 and 40 minutes). Stir regularly as it cooks to prevent scorching.
    When the marmalade reaches 220°F/105°C and sustains that temperature for 1 minute (even after stirring), remove the pot from the heat. Test the set of the marmalade using the saucer test described on page 77. If it doesn’t pass, return the pot to the heat and cook for an additional 5 minutes before repeating the test. Once it seems to be setting to your satisfaction, remove the pot from the heat and stir for about 1 minute, to help the zest bits become evenly distributed throughout the preserve.
    Ladle the marmalade into the prepared jars. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (see page 11 ).

BLOOD ORANGE MARMALADE
    W HEN BLOOD ORANGES WERE FIRST INTRODUCED to the American market in the 1930s, marketers tried to brand them “citrus tomatoes,” fearing that shoppers would be put off by thoughts of bodily fluid. Thankfully, the name never caught on. These scarlet-fleshed fruits drip with crimson juice and make the most wonderfully hued marmalade.
MAKES 3 (1-PINT/500 ML) JARS
    3½ pounds/1.6 kg blood oranges (about 10 to 12)
    6 cups/1.2 kg sugar
    2 teaspoons powdered pectin (optional; see note on page 82 )
    Wash the fruit in warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly. Using a serrated-edge vegetable peeler, remove the zest from

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