boil, reduce the heat to medium-high, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until zest ribbons are tender.
While the zest cooks, âsupremeâ the fruit by cutting the white pith away from the fruit and cutting the fruit into segments between the membranes. Collect the fruit and any juices in a large bowl and remove the seeds as you go, setting them aside.
When all the fruit has been segmented out, bundle the seeds into a length of cheesecloth, tying the ends of the cloth securely so that no seeds can escape.
Drain the zest in a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the cooking liquid.
Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
In a pot, combine the drained zest, segmented citrus fruit and juice, 4 cups/960 ml of the reserved cooking liquid, the sugar, and the cheesecloth bundle. Bring to a vigorous boil and cook until the mixture reaches 220°F/105°C (this takes between 30 and 40 minutes). Stir regularly as it cooks to prevent scorching.
When the marmalade reaches 220°F/105°C and sustains that temperature for 1 minute (even after stirring), remove the pot from the heat. Test the set of the marmaladeusing the saucer test described on page 77. If it doesnât pass, return the pot to the heat and cook for an additional 5 minutes before repeating the test. Once it seems to be setting to your satisfaction, remove the pot from the heat and remove the cheesecloth bundle. Stir marmalade for about 1 minute, to help the zest bits become evenly distributed throughout the preserves.
Ladle the marmalade into the prepared jars. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (see page 11 ).
MEYER LEMON MARMALADE
W HEN I WAS YOUNG, MY GRANDMA BUNNY LIVED in an asymmetrical ranch house in Woodland Hills, California. It was perched on a hillside and the air around the house smelled like eucalyptus leaves, rosemary, and Meyer lemons. She was the proudest Meyer lemon mama youâd ever meet and enjoyed evangelizing their many virtues. Though I canât prove it, I think she may have been behind their renewed popularity. Iâm certain Bunny would have loved this marmalade, because it manages to both capture and enhance the flavor of these bracing, thin-skinned orange-lemon hybrids. Because I canât bear to waste even a smidgen of a good Meyer, this is a marmalade recipe that uses the whole fruit. Because of this, it does need an overnight rest in the fridge before using, to help break down the white pith and render it a bit less bitter.
MAKES 4 (1-PINT/500 ML) JARS
3 pounds/1.4 kg Meyer lemons (approximately 20 lemons)
5½ cups/1.1 kg granulated sugar, divided
Wash the lemons in warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly. Using a very sharp knife, cut both the flower and stem ends off the fruit. Sit each trimmed lemon on one of its newly flat ends and cut it into 6 wedges. Lay each wedge on its side and cut away the strip of inner membrane and the seeds. Reserve the trimmed pith and seeds (weâll be using them as a pectin source).
Take each trimmed wedge (it should look a bit like a pyramid with its top cut off), layit rind-side up, and thinly slice from one pointy tip to the other. What you want to end up with are bits of lemon that are no more than a ¼-inch/6 mm thick (â
-inch/3 mm thick is even better) and no more than 1¼ inches/4 cm in length. Repeat this with all the lemons.
Combine the lemon slices in a bowl or container that will fit in your fridge (I like to use a ½ gallon/2 liter canning jar) and add 2 cups/400 g sugar. Stir to help the sugar dissolve. Bundle up the reserved seeds into a length of cheesecloth, tie the ends tightly and pop that into the container as well. Place it in the refrigerator overnight (it can be left this way up to 48 hours, which is good for those of us who lead busy
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