that might be. I packed my bag and set my watch for six the following morning, in order to catch the only boat off the island. Some time later, I told my parents of my plan. As long as I was careful they would be happy.After all, what could go wrong?
The desire in Thailand, like many other developing countries, to acquire foreign language skills, particularly English, had led to a major teaching industry in Bangkok with schools appearing overnight. However, when I arrived back in the city I had very little money and my clothes were unsuitable for teaching. Most days were spent walking the streets, looking for work. I would go into office buildings pretending to look for someone that I knew did not exist, knowing the local custom is always to offer a guest a glass of water.As someone went to enquire about the person I was looking for, I would drink the water and then disappear.
Yet despite the initial difficulties, and having no formal teaching qualifications, I soon got work without any real problem.
From February 1991 until October 1992 I worked in a number of places including a university, various language schools, the United Nations-related international school, and many business establishments. I also taught students privately in their homes several times a week, and I got to see a side of the people and their country that was truly Thai. I loved teaching and I learned far more than I taught my pupils.
Before long I found a nice place to live close to the Chao Prya River, and quickly developed an intriguing circle of friends.The days passed and, almost surreptitiously, Bangkok was better than I had anticipated.The chaos, pollution, traffic jams, noise, heat and constant hustle and bustle were now adorable instead of reprehen- sible.
Wearing a silk-lined miniskirt, I often found myself riding around the city sitting side-saddle on the back of a motorbike taxi, listening to Sting,Tracy Chapman, Lou Reed and INXS through a Walkman personal stereo strapped to my head. It was way too much fun to be real.
Incredibly, I got parts as a movie extra in Thai films, music videos and later I would take part in the making of several televi- sion commercials.This was my life, and it was perfect. I was young and frivolous and curious about things.The streets were alive, the people were alive; the city, with its magical allure, was too.
I felt a new excitement in my life. I sensed a watershed in my relationship with Thailand and, in the weeks that followed, I grad- ually developed a sense of antipathy for my old life at home.
Around the middle of 1991 I began a relationship with an
American guy by the name of Hurley Scroggins, the third. It took him ages to convince me that he was worthy of any attention, but after a few months his Jack Nicholson looks took my fancy. Hurley was fun, well-travelled, rather eccentric and very sociable. For a while he had lived in Spain, and spoke the language fluently; he could also speak Dutch.What impressed me most was that he was extremely knowledgeable and spoke, in such an eloquent
fashion, of things I had never heard of. More importantly, he was much wilder at heart than myself. Much to my surprise we fell in love.
Hurley worked as a journalist for an English language maga- zine, and our life together was exciting and full of surprises. No longer did I consider myself a tourist in Thailand. I was now a bona-fide ex-pat.
The ex-pat community in Bangkok is a small group, an island amid an ocean, where everyone knows each other, but is not always necessarily dependent on, or close to, each other. British, American, Australian and European – the ex-pat community in Bangkok is spread over different geographical areas, simply because it is a huge city. Like anywhere, different people migrate to different sorts of areas.
Sukkumvit tends to be the place loosely regarded as the middle-class area, where the rich foreigners go. Older travellers, many of who have been on the road for years, and old
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