pain at the same time.’
***
The Battalion found that, apart from training, drilling and desert marches, much of their time was spent in strengthening the defences around the Suez Canal and improving the communication facilities. What had become clear at an early stage was that they also had a special role in cultivating suitable relationships with the Arabs. They had a strict code of conduct to adhere to whenever they were in contact with local people but the good natured geniality of the northern soldiers broke down many barriers.
At first, they had found that the cultural differences and the unfathomable language created a large gulf, but the natural affinity and respect between working class men of any race soon helped to bridge it.
Edward was intrigued by the contrast between the Spartan and often shoddy clothes that the men wore and the brightly coloured clothes and glittery sandals of the women. Their contact was invariably with either the men or the boys as they were the ones who filled the jobs in the barracks and served in the bars, the cafes and the shops.
Off the main thoroughfares, the back streets of Cairo were a riot of exciting and vivid experiences. Plain, pale brown buildings with erratic windows and protruding upper floors supported by bracing, wooden jambs leaned together conspiratorially over narrow alleys. Broken render revealed the mud bricks of the structure. The streets had an amazing vigour, with heady aromas of exotic spices and cooking hanging sharply against the pungent and often putrid smells of cloth dying and leather tanning. Front rooms of the houses were given over to the pursuit of the family business with blacksmiths, pan makers, cobblers, leather workers and tailors, shops selling fruit and vegetables and stalls laden with colourful seeds, peppers and spices. The cries of the tradesmen, the sound of the carts and the babble of neighbourly exchanges and customer negotiations, created an atmosphere that thrilled the three Salford men as they walked around.
Liam was quick to pick up some Arabic words and enjoyed the rapport that he soon established. His technique was a combination of facial expressions, gesticulating and pointing, and a disarming willingness to laugh at his own difficulties. The Arabs responded warmly to him and tried to use the few English words that they, in turn, had managed to acquire.
Initially, Edward felt a natural reticence, fearing the embarrassment of using words in the wrong context, but Liam’s determined and good humoured approach reinforced him and he quickly acquired a limited but useful vocabulary. Big Charlie, however, relied on his repertoire of expressive grunts reinforced by the nodding or shaking of his head, in order to get by. The Arabs were, anyway, generally just pleased to find that this large, somewhat intimidating, Englishman was actually quite affable.
The Salford Battalion, with their friendly and patient approach, and the Arabs, with their creative and articulate gestures, soon established a level of communication. Gradually, the soldiers managed to gain the trust and friendship of the natives and this helped to overcome the Turkish efforts to turn the conflict into a religious war.
During their time off the troops organized a variety of sports and social activities. Some of them discovered hidden talents as they took part in performances by the concert party whilst many, despite the stifling heat during the day, nurtured their talents in football, rugby, cricket and lacrosse.
On the odd occasions that they had a free evening, the three friends would take the opportunity to see a little more of Cairo, wandering around the busy streets, sitting in the cafes or in the bars. Their sense of adventure, or their yearning for a decent pint of beer, often induced them to sample a range of locally produced drinks with, sometimes, unfortunate consequences.
‘Do you have a dominant leg when you’ve had a few, Eddie?’ Liam asked,
***
The Battalion found that, apart from training, drilling and desert marches, much of their time was spent in strengthening the defences around the Suez Canal and improving the communication facilities. What had become clear at an early stage was that they also had a special role in cultivating suitable relationships with the Arabs. They had a strict code of conduct to adhere to whenever they were in contact with local people but the good natured geniality of the northern soldiers broke down many barriers.
At first, they had found that the cultural differences and the unfathomable language created a large gulf, but the natural affinity and respect between working class men of any race soon helped to bridge it.
Edward was intrigued by the contrast between the Spartan and often shoddy clothes that the men wore and the brightly coloured clothes and glittery sandals of the women. Their contact was invariably with either the men or the boys as they were the ones who filled the jobs in the barracks and served in the bars, the cafes and the shops.
Off the main thoroughfares, the back streets of Cairo were a riot of exciting and vivid experiences. Plain, pale brown buildings with erratic windows and protruding upper floors supported by bracing, wooden jambs leaned together conspiratorially over narrow alleys. Broken render revealed the mud bricks of the structure. The streets had an amazing vigour, with heady aromas of exotic spices and cooking hanging sharply against the pungent and often putrid smells of cloth dying and leather tanning. Front rooms of the houses were given over to the pursuit of the family business with blacksmiths, pan makers, cobblers, leather workers and tailors, shops selling fruit and vegetables and stalls laden with colourful seeds, peppers and spices. The cries of the tradesmen, the sound of the carts and the babble of neighbourly exchanges and customer negotiations, created an atmosphere that thrilled the three Salford men as they walked around.
Liam was quick to pick up some Arabic words and enjoyed the rapport that he soon established. His technique was a combination of facial expressions, gesticulating and pointing, and a disarming willingness to laugh at his own difficulties. The Arabs responded warmly to him and tried to use the few English words that they, in turn, had managed to acquire.
Initially, Edward felt a natural reticence, fearing the embarrassment of using words in the wrong context, but Liam’s determined and good humoured approach reinforced him and he quickly acquired a limited but useful vocabulary. Big Charlie, however, relied on his repertoire of expressive grunts reinforced by the nodding or shaking of his head, in order to get by. The Arabs were, anyway, generally just pleased to find that this large, somewhat intimidating, Englishman was actually quite affable.
The Salford Battalion, with their friendly and patient approach, and the Arabs, with their creative and articulate gestures, soon established a level of communication. Gradually, the soldiers managed to gain the trust and friendship of the natives and this helped to overcome the Turkish efforts to turn the conflict into a religious war.
During their time off the troops organized a variety of sports and social activities. Some of them discovered hidden talents as they took part in performances by the concert party whilst many, despite the stifling heat during the day, nurtured their talents in football, rugby, cricket and lacrosse.
On the odd occasions that they had a free evening, the three friends would take the opportunity to see a little more of Cairo, wandering around the busy streets, sitting in the cafes or in the bars. Their sense of adventure, or their yearning for a decent pint of beer, often induced them to sample a range of locally produced drinks with, sometimes, unfortunate consequences.
‘Do you have a dominant leg when you’ve had a few, Eddie?’ Liam asked,
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