I adopted a No Fear attitude, slight headaches and mild nausea disappeared. If everyone around you says they feel sick, it can affect you. Ben and I decided we felt fine. The high top trail runner shoes were a good choice for this section, keeping out loose stones and some snow. For the first time I tried some Smart Wool socks. My feet stayed warm and comfortable, even though they were sopping wet by day’s end.
The next day, Becky rejoined us. We forded streams barefooted, pressed on to Forester Pass, highest point on the PCT at 13,200 ft., all the while anticipating the snowy climb. We needed to get there before it refroze in the evening. These areas are dangerous in early season because the approach to the pass is often snow covered, and hikers may find themselves traversing a snowfield undercut by water. The first clue is the sound of a rushing river, while it remains unseen. At that point, one gets to higher ground, avoiding the sunspots, or low melted areas, with that same bluish tint.
Forester Pass, highest point on the PCT/ Ben, Becky, Brawny
After the pass, the northbound trail below was totally snow covered with footprints diagonally traversing the slope. We three had cross-country skied before, so with that same gliding motion we descended the slope. When at last we were back on a small piece of dirt footpath, we celebrated by placing clean snow in our empty peanut butter jars, stirring in some packages of cocoa mix, and making Ice Cream Slushies. We spent the rest of that day hunting the trail, which was covered in snow, ice and water.
Things You’d Rather Not Hear:
“It’s all down hill from here.” - Somehow those words always precede the worst of sections, but draw one into an insanely huge mileage day. Be careful who tells you that. They may just be trying to get rid of you.
“The prices there are pretty reasonable for California.” - Means outrageous to normal folks.
“So, are you having fun?” – Excuse me? You mean I’m supposed to?
“There’s a horse camp upstream.” - This just after you’ve drunk a quart of untreated water from this lovely creek. “Don't worry, he’s waiting for you, Honey.”- From a weekender, especially disturbing when you've been hiking alone for days. Who could be waiting?
Pinchot Pass, Mather Pass, and Muir Pass, are all noteworthy. South bounders were questioned on the snow cover and depth. Sometimes I found myself frustrated by lack of calories while slogging through miles of snow. The last hour before each pass was usually spent searching for footprints, avoiding sunspots and under washed snowfields. The PCT / JMT doesn’t always summit at the low spot of the pass. We followed footprints, guessed at the meaning of obscure guidebook passages, took compass readings, and checked maps to find our way. Often I caught up to Ben. Two sets of eyes are good at times like this. He was a man of few words, and the few were to the point. One day while climbing at over 10,000 feet, he turned and stated, "I feel like shit." I burst out laughing. I knew he wasn’t asking for help, just stating an observation.
Finally, with Vermillion Valley Resort only 27 miles away I could enjoy the last bites of my food, and save a breakfast for tomorrow. My ramen had been supplemented with wild onions for 9 ½ days. At night I dreamed of candy bars and woke up disappointed. At this point, anything was good and money seemed unimportant. Clean clothes and hair (without every last strand coated in dust), became worth whatever the cost in dollars and cents. The day before reaching our resupply, we met a young man who was filled with fears, who talked about all the bad things that might happen to people. He even skipped a section because he feared tainted water. Fear is a very negative force; deadly to dreams. I have been very afraid many times. Hate to let it beat me without a fight, though. I just
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