Near a Thousand Tables by Felipe Fernández-Armesto Page A
Authors: Felipe Fernández-Armesto
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revolution, 167
sugar in, 166-67, 169, 180-81, 182, 183
sweet potatoes in, 166, 169, 178-79, 184
wheat in, 95, 165, 168, 169-74, 177
Edda,
104
Edwards, Bryan, 164
Egypt, ancient, 34, 84, 89, 103-4, 111, 135, 149, 153-54
elite food styles, 10, 55, 66, 81, 86, 89, 96, 98, 101-30, 132-33, 139, 183
in Africa, 129-30
Arabian, 117, 119-21, 139, 155
austerity in, 110, 112-13, 115
banquets in, 104, 109, 111-12, 113-15, 116-17, 120, 122, 127-29, 130
chocolate in, 183
conspicuous consumption in, 66, 103, 109, 113-14, 128
cooks and, 109, 116-17
courtly cuisines in, 98, 109-23, 124, 127-30
cross-class transfers of, 123-27
diverse provenance of ingredients in, 148-49
diversity in, 109
embourgeoisement of, 119-23
etiquette in, 105, 113, 117-19
excessive quantities in, 101-8, 109, 111-12, 113
food aesthetics in, 120
food distribution and, 103-4, 188
heroic eating in, 102, 104-8, 109, 112, 114, 122-23
intellectual games in, 115
menus for, 105, 106, 107, 111-12, 121, 123, 128-29
of Native Americans, 127-29
novelty in, 113-15
obesity aesthetics in, 102, 104
painstaking preparation in, 111-12, 113, 115-17, 124
in paradise, 102-3
privileged foodstuffs in, 124, 129, 130
recipes for, 111, 116-17, 119, 120-21, 122, 123, 124, 125, 140, 155, 156
refinement in, 109-11, 126
Renaissance, 109, 121-23, 125
sauces in, 115-17, 119, 125
seasoning in, 115, 120-22, 124, 130, 153;
see also
spice trade
service in, 147-48
social benefits of, 102, 103-4
tableware for, 106, 109, 112, 120, 148
unseasonal dishes in, 114
in U.S., 107-8
wild foods in, 69-70, 72
Ellington, Duke, 107-8
El Niño events, 205, 206
England, 26, 51, 151, 165, 166-68, 171-72, 174-75, 191, 194-97, 205
canning in, 213-14
chocolate in, 182, 198, 199
cuisine of, 2-3, 69-70, 121, 124, 126, 127, 133, 144, 167-68, 169
fast food in, 220
French cuisine rejected by, 132-35
market towns of, 194-95
pesticide use in, 209
wheat yields in, 207
Epicharmus, 102-3
Epictetus, 112
Eppsâs cocoa, 189
ergotism, 89
Eskimos, 54, 60, 63-64
Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food as a Moral Duty, An
(Ritson), 42-43
Ethiopia, 2, 7, 23, 41, 81, 90, 124, 130, 158, 165
Fagan, Brian, 87
famines, 27, 138, 204-6
Farfán, AgustÃn, 38
fast food, 19, 20, 96, 146, 190, 219, 220-23
fat consumption, 53-54, 218
fat-tailed sheep, 77
Ferreri, Marco, 204
Fiji Islands, 6, 23, 28, 29, 32, 53, 136
fire, 1-12, 77, 82, 91
animal exploitation of, 9-10
carrying vs. kindling of, 12
as divine gift, 7-8
domestication of, 8-10
in game management, 59, 62, 65, 70
social effects of, 11-12
firepot cookery, 76
Fisher, M. F. K., 109, 111
fish farming, 73-75, 202
fishing, 57, 61, 67, 72-75
Fletcher, Horace, 45-46, 47
Fogg, Wayne, 91-92
foodism, 113, 224
food magic, 20, 21-54
aphrodisiacs in, 32-33, 52
cannibalism as, 27-29, 35, 52
character-forming, 42-43
chastity promoted by, 33, 43
explanations sought for, 31-32
proscribed foods in, 31-32
sacred foods in, 29-31, 86, 99, 100, 176
sympathetic, 33, 42
totemic foods in, 32
see also
dietetics
Forster, Johann Reinhold, 39, 184-85
Framingham study, 54
Francatelli, Charles Elmé, 187-89
France, 19, 102, 122-23, 141, 147-48, 150, 151, 179, 181, 191
Algeria conquered by, 173-74
canning in, 212-13
cuisine of, 55, 90, 124, 126, 127, 132-35, 144, 146, 167
fast food in, 220
meat consumption in, 202
France gourmande, La
(Dumontelli), 124
Frankhthi Cave site, 57
Franklin, Sir John, 213
Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, 120
Frederik Hendrik Island, 82
freeze-drying, 155, 211
frozen foods, 214, 215, 218, 219, 222, 223
fusion food, 137, 222, 223
Gage, Thomas, 182
Galen, 34, 35, 37, 123-24, 135
Gama, Vasco da, 36-37, 157-59
Gandhi, Mohandas K., 18, 150
Garcilaso de la Vega, 60
Garrido, Juan, 169, 171
garum sauce, 121, 124
gathering, 57, 58, 59, 62, 78-79, 81, 86-87, 176
as beneficial lifestyle, 82-83 genetically modified foods, 79, 209-10
Genghis Khan, 113
Gerbert of Aurillac, 119
Gesta
sugar in, 166-67, 169, 180-81, 182, 183
sweet potatoes in, 166, 169, 178-79, 184
wheat in, 95, 165, 168, 169-74, 177
Edda,
104
Edwards, Bryan, 164
Egypt, ancient, 34, 84, 89, 103-4, 111, 135, 149, 153-54
elite food styles, 10, 55, 66, 81, 86, 89, 96, 98, 101-30, 132-33, 139, 183
in Africa, 129-30
Arabian, 117, 119-21, 139, 155
austerity in, 110, 112-13, 115
banquets in, 104, 109, 111-12, 113-15, 116-17, 120, 122, 127-29, 130
chocolate in, 183
conspicuous consumption in, 66, 103, 109, 113-14, 128
cooks and, 109, 116-17
courtly cuisines in, 98, 109-23, 124, 127-30
cross-class transfers of, 123-27
diverse provenance of ingredients in, 148-49
diversity in, 109
embourgeoisement of, 119-23
etiquette in, 105, 113, 117-19
excessive quantities in, 101-8, 109, 111-12, 113
food aesthetics in, 120
food distribution and, 103-4, 188
heroic eating in, 102, 104-8, 109, 112, 114, 122-23
intellectual games in, 115
menus for, 105, 106, 107, 111-12, 121, 123, 128-29
of Native Americans, 127-29
novelty in, 113-15
obesity aesthetics in, 102, 104
painstaking preparation in, 111-12, 113, 115-17, 124
in paradise, 102-3
privileged foodstuffs in, 124, 129, 130
recipes for, 111, 116-17, 119, 120-21, 122, 123, 124, 125, 140, 155, 156
refinement in, 109-11, 126
Renaissance, 109, 121-23, 125
sauces in, 115-17, 119, 125
seasoning in, 115, 120-22, 124, 130, 153;
see also
spice trade
service in, 147-48
social benefits of, 102, 103-4
tableware for, 106, 109, 112, 120, 148
unseasonal dishes in, 114
in U.S., 107-8
wild foods in, 69-70, 72
Ellington, Duke, 107-8
El Niño events, 205, 206
England, 26, 51, 151, 165, 166-68, 171-72, 174-75, 191, 194-97, 205
canning in, 213-14
chocolate in, 182, 198, 199
cuisine of, 2-3, 69-70, 121, 124, 126, 127, 133, 144, 167-68, 169
fast food in, 220
French cuisine rejected by, 132-35
market towns of, 194-95
pesticide use in, 209
wheat yields in, 207
Epicharmus, 102-3
Epictetus, 112
Eppsâs cocoa, 189
ergotism, 89
Eskimos, 54, 60, 63-64
Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food as a Moral Duty, An
(Ritson), 42-43
Ethiopia, 2, 7, 23, 41, 81, 90, 124, 130, 158, 165
Fagan, Brian, 87
famines, 27, 138, 204-6
Farfán, AgustÃn, 38
fast food, 19, 20, 96, 146, 190, 219, 220-23
fat consumption, 53-54, 218
fat-tailed sheep, 77
Ferreri, Marco, 204
Fiji Islands, 6, 23, 28, 29, 32, 53, 136
fire, 1-12, 77, 82, 91
animal exploitation of, 9-10
carrying vs. kindling of, 12
as divine gift, 7-8
domestication of, 8-10
in game management, 59, 62, 65, 70
social effects of, 11-12
firepot cookery, 76
Fisher, M. F. K., 109, 111
fish farming, 73-75, 202
fishing, 57, 61, 67, 72-75
Fletcher, Horace, 45-46, 47
Fogg, Wayne, 91-92
foodism, 113, 224
food magic, 20, 21-54
aphrodisiacs in, 32-33, 52
cannibalism as, 27-29, 35, 52
character-forming, 42-43
chastity promoted by, 33, 43
explanations sought for, 31-32
proscribed foods in, 31-32
sacred foods in, 29-31, 86, 99, 100, 176
sympathetic, 33, 42
totemic foods in, 32
see also
dietetics
Forster, Johann Reinhold, 39, 184-85
Framingham study, 54
Francatelli, Charles Elmé, 187-89
France, 19, 102, 122-23, 141, 147-48, 150, 151, 179, 181, 191
Algeria conquered by, 173-74
canning in, 212-13
cuisine of, 55, 90, 124, 126, 127, 132-35, 144, 146, 167
fast food in, 220
meat consumption in, 202
France gourmande, La
(Dumontelli), 124
Frankhthi Cave site, 57
Franklin, Sir John, 213
Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, 120
Frederik Hendrik Island, 82
freeze-drying, 155, 211
frozen foods, 214, 215, 218, 219, 222, 223
fusion food, 137, 222, 223
Gage, Thomas, 182
Galen, 34, 35, 37, 123-24, 135
Gama, Vasco da, 36-37, 157-59
Gandhi, Mohandas K., 18, 150
Garcilaso de la Vega, 60
Garrido, Juan, 169, 171
garum sauce, 121, 124
gathering, 57, 58, 59, 62, 78-79, 81, 86-87, 176
as beneficial lifestyle, 82-83 genetically modified foods, 79, 209-10
Genghis Khan, 113
Gerbert of Aurillac, 119
Gesta
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