The Hemingway Cookbook

The Hemingway Cookbook by Craig Boreth Page A

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Authors: Craig Boreth
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buttered 10-inch tart pan by rolling the dough around the rolling pin and unrolling it onto the pan. Work the dough into the pan, gently lifting to cover the bottom and sides evenly. Fold over any excess and crimp decoratively. Refrigerate the tart shell for at least 30 minutes, or until ready for filling.
    When the shell has chilled, preheat the oven to 350° F. Prick the bottom of the shell several times with a fork. Line the surface of the shell with aluminum foil and fill with dry beans to prevent shrinking or heaving. Bake the tart shell for 20 minutes.
    To make the filling, cut the apples into thin slices and toss in a bowl with the lemon juice. Arrange the slices in the tart shell in two layers of overlapping, concentric circles, sprinkling half the sugar on each layer. Drizzle the finished tart with melted butter. Bake at 350° F for about 30 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Serve warm.
    It was not until March 1922, that Ernest found the courage to call on Gertrude Stein at her studio at 27 Rue de Fleurus. He had no doubt borrowed her books from Shakespeare and Company and was eager to affirm Anderson’s assessment of the importance of her experimental writings, but as a 22-year-old aspiring writer with roots in journalism and a taste for Kipling, he just didn’t get it. When he and Hadley finally visited Gertrude and her partner, Alice Toklas, Ernest could not possibly understand the profound impact that this squat woman with the mobile face would have on his life and his ability to write:

    Alice Toklas (left) and Gertrude Stein in the salon of their pavilion located in the courtyard of 27 rue de Fleurus.
My wife and I had called on Miss Stein, and she and the friend who lived with her had been very cordial and friendly and we had loved the big studio with the great paintings. It was like one of the best rooms in the finest museum except there was a big fireplace and it was warm and comfortable and they gave you good things to eat and tea and natural distilled liqueurs made from purple plums, yellow plums or wild raspberries. 6
    Hemingway spent many afternoons sitting before Miss Stein in the studio, listening attentively to her instructions on the rhythm of words, the power of repetition, and sex and writers and life. She found him an extremely handsome young man, eager to learn. Their friendship grew into the relationship between master and disciple, and each benefited. Ernest, while working for Ford Madox Ford on the Transatlantic Review , insisted that Ford publish Stein’s immense The Making of Americans serially in the magazine. As with most friends of those days, where Ernest was once the willing student, eventually the success of the disciple overshadowed that of the master. Ernest was often less than gracious, seeing clearly the faults and shortcomings of those whom he had once so deeply admired. Stein was no exception. He saw in her the cardinal vice of writers, one that he could never forgive: laziness. He saw her through new, seemingly clearer eyes, her genius turned to arrogance, and their friendship dissolved in venomous public critiques. In the early days, though, when there was much to learn and a childlike eagerness to listen, Ernest drank in the warmth of Miss Stein’s studio and partook of her philosophy as well as of her food and drink. The following recipes are adapted from The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook .
    Visitandines
    These small cakes were first prepared for Gertrude Stein and Alice Toklas by Léonie, an early femme de ménage in their home. She claimed that the name was derived from the religious order of the Visitation, the nuns of which first prepared them . Visitandines were invented to help the nuns use up their surplus egg whites .
    ABOUT 36 CAKES
¼ cup butter
8 egg whites
cup sifted all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup apricot jam
    Preheat the oven to 400° F .
    In a saucepan, heat the butter slowly until slightly browned. Remove from heat and allow to

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