cool. Combine 6 of the egg whites in a bowl and stir very slowly with a wooden spoon until completely mixed. This step may take up to 15 minutes. Fold in the flour and mix until perfectly smooth. Add the vanilla and heated butter. Beat the 2 remaining egg whites to stiff peaks, then add to the batter.
Lightly butter small muffin tins. Fill halfway with batter and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until visitandines are pale gold in color. Remove from tins to a cooling rack. In a small saucepan, heat the apricot jam just to boiling. Strain through a fine sieve. Paint the cakes with apricot glaze.
Note: You may wish to frost the visitandines with kirsch icing, which is simply butter cream with a few tablespoons of kirsch added.
Black Currant Liqueur
ABOUT 2¾ QUARTS
½ pound raspberries
3 pounds black currants
1 cup black currant leaves
1 quart vodka
3 pounds sugar
3 cups water
Wash and drain the raspberries and black currants. Place the berries in a large ceramic or glass bowl and mash thoroughly. Cover the bowl with cheese-cloth and set aside in a cool place for 24 hours.
After this time, add the black currant leaves and vodka to the bowl. Cover the bowl with a plate and set aside again for another 24 hours.
After the second day, pour the mash through a fine sieve into another bowl, forcing through all of the liquid with a pestle. In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil over low heat, stirring constantly. Boil for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove the syrup from heat and allow to cool completely. Add the syrup to the berries, cover with a cloth, and allow to stand for several hours. Filter the liqueur through cheesecloth into bottles. It may be served immediately.
Hemingway lived in Paris, off and on, for eight years. He was educated at the feet of Stein and Pound and Fitzgerald, and he worked very hard to turn his writing into his art. He worked hardest in a small rented studio on the Rue Descartes, hunched over the Corona typewriter Hadley bought for him, sipping kirsch to keep warm by the fire and eating mandarins and chestnuts. He also discovered such Parisian cafés as the Café du Dôme, the Closerie des Lilas, and a “warm and clean and friendly” 7 café on the Place St. Michel. He would order a café au lait, a rum St. James, and a dozen of the very cheap oysters known as portugaises and wrote stories like “The Three Day Blow.”
When there was no money, when he was unable to sell his stories and had given up journalism altogether and dared not gamble on the horses to support his wife and newborn son, he discovered strategies to hide his hunger or use it in his work:
By any standards we were still very poor and I still made such small economies as saying that I had been asked out for lunch and then spending two hours walking in the Luxembourg gardens and coming back to describe the marvelous lunch to my wife. When you are twenty-five and are a natural heavy-weight, missing a meal makes you very hungry. But it also sharpens all of your perceptions, and I found that many of the people I wrote about had very strong appetites and a great taste and desire for food, and most of them were looking forward to having a drink. 8
He often used the Luxembourg gardens to relieve his hunger, as “you saw and smelled nothing to eat all the way from the Place de I’Observatoire to the rue de Vaurigard.” 9 In the Luxembourg museum, the paintings by Cézanne appeared sharper and clearer and more beautiful because he was “belly-empty, hollow-hungry.” 10 One early afternoon late in 1924, Ernest decided to walk to Shakespeare and Company, carefully avoiding streets filled with aromatic restaurants and cafés. That day, Sylvia Beach had good news: a letter had arrived from Der Querschnitt , a German magazine, which had accepted two of his stories and paid him 600 francs. “Hunger is healthy and the pictures do look better when you are hungry,” but “eating is wonderful too and do you
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