now. Tourmaline is a beach break, popular with young beginners and longboarders. This is where Michael first caught waves on his own, where, as a boy, he hung out all summer long. The bathrooms were especially gross, and because they were, Michael has never felt like heâs at the shore if the public bathrooms and showers arenât contagious.
As he watches the surfers catch the last waves of the afternoon, heâs aware of a spindly figure approaching. The man, bearded and with long, tangled sun-streaked hair, is barefoot, wears ragged jeans and a faded Quicksilver T-shirt. The man stops. He eyes the beer hungrily.
âHey, got an extra, bra?â
The man looks familiar. Almost but not quite. Michael knows the type. A self-styled surf guru. An aging man-child who probably lives in his car and spends his days on the sand, smoking dope and discussing the wave conditions, past and present, with anyone who will take the time to listen. Michael lives now in an alternate universe. He pulls a beer from the plastic ring and flips it to the burned-out man who snatches it out of the air and grins. âTight, bra.â Foam bubbles and spills as he pops it and sucks it in happily. He looks toward the water. âDunzo out there, huh, dude?â Dunzo. Meaning the best ever. The guy would be funny if he wasnât serious.
âYeah, pretty good.â In truth itâs weak. Without even thinking about it, Michael knows the knee-high waves are coming in fifteen-second intervals, a northwest wind is working against a southwest swell. Crossed-up lines with some workable corners and a choppy surface.
The surf rat stares at Michael a moment. His brow furrows as if heâs struggling to remember something. Where he lives. What day of the week it is. He gestures with the beer.
âYo, you Michael Hodge?â
Michael answers before he thinks to lie. âYeah.â
The bum breaks into a huge, happy grin. âDude! Aw, man, whoa, it is a complete and total honor, dude.â He thrusts his sunburned hand out at Michael. Michael has no choice but to take it. The bumâs fingers are dry and scaly. He pumps Michaelâs hand up and down with enthusiasm.
âI was on the beach when you took the ASP event up at Trestles. You were so totally, bitchinâ badass, man?â
âThanks,â says Michael, retrieving his hand.
âMichael freakinâ Hodge!â The bum shakes his head as if he canât believe it. As if the name is as good as the cold beer. And then he looks lost again, as if heâs suddenly not sure it really happened. âHey, when was that, man, what year?â
âOh four,â says Michael.
âYeah!â The rat grins, both happy and relieved. âAnd bra, you were milfy. You were the boss!â
âI was lucky,â says Michael. âGarcia couldnât catch a decent ride in the final heat and handed it to me.â
âYeah, but thems the breaks!â says the rat as if he remembers. âYou put out or shit or lock the doors on Fort Pitt. And I was there!â
âIâm glad you were.â
The bum gulps some beer. He nods toward the water. âHey, you should be out there with us. Showinâ the newbies how itâs done.â
Us.
âYou know whatâs wrong with surfing?â says Michael. He doesnât wait for an answer. âThe waves take you in the wrong direction.â
The bum frowns, then chuckles uncertainly. âToo heavy for me, man. I just like to get fucked up.â
âBe my guest.â Michael hands him the rest of the six-pack and turns back toward the truck. As heâs tossing his unfinished beer into a trash can, he can hear the bum calling out to someone on the beach.
âHey, dude, hey! Know who that is? That is Michael Hodge, man! He used to tear it up! He used to be somebody.â
Somebody.
Used to be.
*Â Â Â *Â Â Â *
âSheâs his mother,â Michael
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